Skip to main content
← Back to the book

Chapter IV

Ingenious Tips

the gestures that wake the matter

« The precious tips that elevate my cooking — soak, cook low, tune the umami, vary the oils, dose the acid, sweeten with plants — and the right tools, to wake the full intelligence of living matter. »

Six gestures that change everything — and the right tools to serve them. They apply to everything we touch in the kitchen. Each one wakes a dimension of the living that was sleeping in the ingredient. But before the gestures, let us understand what the seed protects: five ingenious defences, and five keys to open them.

The seed's defences — the five to know

A seed is a strongbox: it locks life away and guards it with defence molecules until the right season comes. These 'technologies' are not enemies — they are locks. To know them is to know which gesture opens them.

1 · Phytates (phytic acid) The mineral lock. The seed stores its iron, zinc, calcium and magnesium here until germination. We open it with acidulated soaking, sprouting and fermentation.

2 · Enzyme inhibitors The seed's brake. They keep its enzymes dormant — and slow ours a little — until it is time to sprout. Soaking followed by a good rinse, then cooking or sprouting, deactivate them.

3 · Lectins & oligosaccharides The legumes' guardians. These proteins and complex sugars protect the seed but can weigh on digestion. A long soak whose water we discard, sufficient cooking, a bay leaf or a strip of kombu, and the meal turns light again.

4 · Oxalates The salt that captures calcium. — abundant in spinach, chard, sorrel and rhubarb, discreet in cacao and some nuts — binds calcium and iron, and matters above all for those prone to stones. Boiling in water we then discard (blanching) removes a good part; varying the greens (rocket, young shoots, kale — gentler) and pairing them with a calcium source does the rest.

5 · Tannins The astringent polyphenols of tea, coffee, cacao, the skin of coloured legumes and some nuts. They are also precious antioxidants: we do not flee them, we tame them. When very present, they slow the absorption of plant iron. Soaking with dehulling, sprouting and fermentation soften them; and a thread of vitamin C — lemon, parsley — throws the iron door wide open again. The tip: keep tea and coffee for between meals, rather than during the iron-rich plate.

Soak the seeds — by family

Every dry seed carries a defence strategy: it must travel intact through an animal's digestion and sprout further. But the intensity of this defence varies by family — and the gesture adjusts.

Legumes (lentils, chickpeas, azuki, beans) — non-negotiable, 8 to 12 hours. Very high density of and . Without soaking, the body receives this defence whole: slow digestion, heaviness, bloating, sometimes cramps.

Nuts (almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, cashews) — recommended, 4 to 8 hours. Optimises mineral bioavailability, lightens chewing, wakes the enzymes.

Grains — graded: oats and brown rice, soak overnight (Bircher tradition, overnight oats); quinoa and amaranth, a rinse is enough to clear surface ; buckwheat, as-is or soaked for raw uses.

Small seeds (chia, flax) gel on contact with water — self-soaking in a few minutes. Sesame, hemp, pumpkin, sunflower: little in real portions.

Engineer's rule: the denser and tougher the seed, the more soaking liberates it. The smaller and softer it is, the more it already gives itself.

Cook with very little water — the Alain Ducasse school

Alain Ducasse's recommendation — for taste AND for nutrients. Abundant cooking water carries minerals and water-soluble vitamins straight into the sink. Steam gently, braise, or cook in a thin film of water that reduces into the dish itself — keep the living matter on the plate. Taste concentrates, colour stays vivid, nutrients stay in the bite.

Tune the umami — the path of comfort

Whole sesame, gomasio (sesame + sea salt, toasted), furikake, miso, nutritional yeast, artisanal tamari. Umami — the 5th flavour, the depth — is what gives the plant-based plate the comfort that cheese brings elsewhere. A spoonful of gomasio on a bowl of rice and vegetables nourishes as much as a grating of parmesan, and stays alive. The engineer's rule: every plate carries its umami note.

Raw oils, added after cooking, varied

Walnut, olive, sesame, hemp, flax. Each oil carries a different fatty acid profile and polyphenols that heat destroys. Drizzle them raw, at the end — never in the pan. Varying oils means varying the membrane architectures for our cells.

Living acid — lemon, parsley, vinegar

On cooked vegetables, in sauces, on salads, in the morning water. Lemon awakens flavours, supports iron absorption, alkalises the terrain, keeps an avocado or a cut herb fresh. When lemon runs out, finely chopped fresh parsley (just as rich in vitamin C), unpasteurised apple cider vinegar, or verjuice play the same role of acid tension. The rule: a thread of acid in every plate.

Sweeten with plants — sweet vegetables, fruit & honey

Sweetness needs no refined sugar. Slow cooking caramelises the sugars of the sweetest vegetables — sweet potato, carrot, beetroot, squash, parsnip, confit onion — and the dish turns sweet with nothing added; a very ripe tomato, reduced, brings the same roundness. Fruits extend the gesture: Medjool dates (Jurassic Fruit), figs, ripe banana, cooked apples and pears, rehydrated dried fruit. And for the finishing touch, a good raw monofloral honey, never heated. Sugar becomes nutritious — magnesium, potassium, fibres, polyphenols, slow-release energy.

The right tools — precision and pleasure

A good gesture deserves a good tool. Two are enough to transform everyday cooking: the Microplane grater, which releases the aroma of garlic, ginger and zest without crushing the fibre or heating it; and the mandoline, which cuts courgettes into living, raw, melting spaghetti.

  • Microplane grater — for garlic, ginger and zest. amazon.fr
  • Anti-cut Microplane grater — the same fineness, fingers protected. amazon.fr
  • Quirelois mandoline (Nishikidori) — for courgette spaghetti. nishikidori.com

“The finest cooking does not denature — it awakens”

Virgile Health · chef-alchemist

The booklet