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Chapter VII

Macrobiotic Intelligence

the Qi of food — Japan & China

« The cuisines of East Asia do not nourish matter alone: they set energy in motion. Eating becomes an art of balance — yin and yang, the living Ki, deep umami. »

I.

The Qi of food — the energy that flows

Where the West counts calories and nutrients, China and Japan first saw energy. The Qi (in Chinese) or Ki (in Japanese) is that living breath which food carries and transmits — the Eastern cousin of India's prana. A vegetable picked in the morning, a fresh root, a living ferment overflow with Qi; a dead food, refined, reheated a thousand times, carries it no more. To eat is, first of all, to choose energy.

The macrobiotic way, formulated by George Ohsawa and then transmitted by Michio Kushi, arranges this energy into two poles: yin (the expansive, the cool, the sweet, the moist) and yang (the contracted, the warm, the salty, the dry). Neither is better than the other — health is born of their moving balance. A dish too yin calls for a touch of yang, and the reverse. It is a dance, not a rule.

Whole rice is held to be the most balanced food there is — neither too yin nor too yang. This is why, in the macrobiotic way, it holds the centre of the plate and of the meal.
II.

Umami — the fifth taste

Japan gave the world the fifth taste: umami, that deep, round, savoury flavour that science eventually named and measured. It is the taste of glutamate — present in kombu, ripe tomato, miso — and it holds a secret of synergy: paired with the guanylate of dried shiitake, or with inosinate, it multiplies up to fifteenfold. A broth of kombu and shiitake is not the sum of two flavours, it is their explosion.

Gomasio — salt dressed in sesame

Whole sesame, toasted and ground with a little sea salt: gomasio coats each crystal of salt in sesame oil, softens its bite, and brings calcium, iron and good fats. A spoonful over rice, and the dish finds its yang anchor.

Furikake — the living condiment

A Japanese blend of seaweed, sesame, seeds and sometimes shiitake, furikake is a concentrate of umami and marine minerals that one scatters over rice, vegetables, broths. It is the art of adding, in a single pinch, the depth of the sea.

III.

Broths and mushrooms

At the heart of Japanese cooking stands dashi — the clear broth of kombu and shiitake that serves as the base for almost everything. It is made without boiling: the kombu infuses in cold water brought up gently, the dried shiitake releases its guanylate. From this broth is born miso soup, that daily comfort where the miso, added off the heat to preserve its living ferments, brings its probiotics and its umami.

IV.

Fermentation and pickles

East Asia raised fermentation to the rank of art. Miso and tamari turn soya into a digestible, living umami. Umeboshi — the salted fermented plum — is a small concentrate of alkalising acidity held to be a great ally of digestion. And tsukemono, those pickles of vegetables in salt, rice bran or vinegar, accompany each meal with a crisp, probiotic note.

Vinegar, a living tension

Rice vinegar, soft and round, and umeboshi vinegar, sharp and saline, bring the acid that awakens the flavours, supports digestion and keeps things fresh. A dash of vinegar in a bowl of rice, and the whole lightens and comes alive.

V.

Ginseng and the tonics

Chinese herbal tradition cultivated, over millennia, the art of tonics — those plants that do not stimulate brutally but rebuild the Qi with patience. Ginseng is their king: an adaptogenic root that supports energy, resilience to stress and clarity, without the spike or the crash of stimulants.

TonicWhat it supportsUse
GinsengDeep energy, stress resilience, clarityDecoction, powder, slow infusion
Astragalus (Huang Qi)Immunity, protective vitalityLong broths, soups
Goji berriesEyes, blood, tonic sweetnessRaw, teas, congee
Jujube (Chinese date)Calm, digestion, harmonises formulasBroths, evening decoctions

This logic of the tonic meets that of the adaptogens we love — ashwagandha, rhodiola, reishi: not to whip the body, but to help it rediscover, day after day, its balance and its reserve. Green tea itself, sencha or matcha, is a tonic of the everyday; we discover it in its most living form at Workshop Issé.

VI.

The composition of a meal

The beauty of the macrobiotic way lies in its architecture of the meal — simple, balanced, repeatable each day. At the centre, the whole grain; around it, the vegetables of the season; a little legume or fermented soya; a soup; a living condiment. Nothing extravagant — an order that nourishes without weighing down.

  1. The whole grain at the centre (rice, millet, buckwheat, barley) — about half the plate.
  2. Seasonal vegetables, gently cooked with a little raw — about a quarter.
  3. A legume or fermented soya (azuki, tofu, tempeh) — a small portion.
  4. A soup (miso, broth) to open the meal and the digestive fire.
  5. A living condiment: gomasio, furikake, pickles — the finishing touch.

“To eat in order to circulate energy, not to fill oneself — this is the whole art of the East at the table.”

Virgile Escalant · chef-alchemist

Frequently asked questions

What is the macrobiotic way?
The macrobiotic way, formulated by George Ohsawa and transmitted by Michio Kushi, is an art of eating founded on the balance of yin (expansive, cool, sweet) and yang (contracted, warm, salty). At the centre, the whole grain (rice, held to be the most balanced food); around it, seasonal vegetables, a little legume or fermented soya, a miso soup and a living condiment (gomasio, furikake, pickles). More than a diet, it is a way of circulating energy — the Qi — through food.
What is umami and how do you develop it?
Umami is the fifth taste, deep and savoury, carried by glutamate (kombu, miso, ripe tomato). Its secret is synergy: paired with the guanylate of dried shiitake, glutamate sees its umami power multiplied up to fifteenfold. This is why Japanese dashi marries kombu and shiitake. To maximise the shiitake's guanylate: rehydrate it cold for 5 to 10 hours, then heat the broth quickly through the 40-60°C zone before holding it between 60 and 80°C for some fifteen minutes.
Why eat pickles and fermented foods at every meal?
In the Japanese tradition, a small amount of fermented vegetables (tsukemono), miso or umeboshi accompanies every meal. These living ferments seed the gut with good bacteria, bring enzymes and ease the assimilation of everything else in the meal. Miso and tamari turn soya into a digestible umami; umeboshi, the salted fermented plum, is a concentrate of alkalising acidity and an ally of digestion; rice vinegar awakens the flavours. It is the signature of a table that thinks of the microbiome.

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